Semproniano - 5/21 & 5/22

5/21 –

On our drive from Grosseto to Semproniano, we stop in Roccalbegna (Rock-o-bain-ya) for a small bite to eat.  No, it is not a town from the old Flintstone’s cartoon; it’s a real place.  

    

Pamm went into the small local café to see what they had to offer in the way of food.  It was pretty sparse in there and she said that when she first walked in, she got a very chilly greeting.  Who were these here strangers in their town?  She spoke up in Italian and explained that her family is from Semproniano and mentioned some other towns and family names and in an instant we are welcomed like family ourselves.    They made us fresh panini’s to order and we sat, watched the townsfolk gather and gossip over a draft beer or a glass of wine, and enjoyed our snack.  Soccer is huge in this tiny town.  Trophies and photos are proudly displayed all around the café and there is a rundown, but usable soccer field right outside the front door.  I’m thinking it is built on the only level ground in town…   

We get back on the road and make to Semproniano before dusk.  The minute we pull up in front of the house to unload our luggage, we are greeted by Murio (more-eeee-o) who runs the only gas station in town, next door.  “CIAO PAM-ELL-A!” he shouts.  He sits out by the gas pump most of the day with other men from the town as they gossip, watch the day and intermittent traffic, go by.   He’s the one in the baseball cap.

In a very short period of time, the town is a buzz – the American’s are back!  We proceed to re-open the house for our lengthy 5-night stay.  It is quiet without Pina next door asking what we what to eat…  It is a little chilly outside, which means it is really chilly in the house – so we light a fire in the kitchen fireplace.  And keep it lit, day and night, for 4 days.  It feels good to be home…

5/22 –

Pamm takes off early in the morning to drive to the coast with her friend and past business partner from Semproniano, Patrizia.  They are driving to Marina di Grosseto to meet with Pamm’s father’s best friend, and well known Tuscan Chef, Elio Paiglia. The main reason behind Pamm’s trip to Italy is to discuss the possibility of doing cooking tours like the kind that they used to do with the restaurant her parents founded, Alfred’s Victorian in Middletown PA.   The restaurant is no longer in their family, but their love of Italy, its food and culture still is and Pamm would love to share this experience with as many people as possible.  The tour details are still in their formulation stage but would include cooking lessons, tours, special dinners and accommodations.  The name of the tour will be “Totally Tuscany by the Sea”.   As soon as I have more details to share, I will be posting them on this blog so you can check it out.  ** Note:  I did the Totally Tuscany tour in 2006.  It was one of the greatest travel experiences I have ever had and is the reason my sabbatical brought me back to Italy.    

I rolled out of bed late today to find that Marilee has been hard at work tending the fire and grocery shopping. There are fresh croissants and juice for breakfast!  I asked about coffee, she asked if I remember how to turn on the gas to the stove.  I take a look at the connection to the propane tank under the sink but am weary as I am not sure what knob to turn.  I should have paid more attention when Aimone was here…  We look at it, then each other, shrug our shoulders and decide to go out for cappuccino instead.  We head up the street to our favorite pub in town – Bar Sport.  It’s a bar but not really a sport's bar like in America.  I think there is a TV somewhere, but only one.  It is also the towns’ cappuccino bar and serves pastry's from the bakery for breakfast and panini's for lunch and dinner. As we sip our delicious morning drinks, we discuss the issue with the gas stove and how we will cook lunch and dinner.  Luckily one burner is electric, so we’ve got that and the kitchen fire place.  We’ll just have to make due. 

We go back home and discuss what we will be having for lunch and dinner (food – it’s always about the food!).  I decide that I am going to win over the people in this one horse town by spreading my money around and shopping in as many stores as I can.   I’m nervous to go out on my own without my Italian security blanket Pamela, but she has taught me the basic phrases to use and I am ready to dive in.  I dare these people not to fall in love with me.  I double dog dare them!  First stop, one of the two grocery stores in town. 

I walked into the small 1-person at a time entry way and stand in the isle, waiting my turn to get around the crowd (by crowd I mean 2 people).  I tried to make eye contact but no one would return my glance.  I got a basket and proceeded to do some shopping.  Marilee has pasta for lunch and asked me to pick up some freshly grated parmesan cheese.   I took a deep breath and stepped up to the deli counter.   The owner of the store gave me a short glance and said something in Italian – I swallowed hard and said “Buon giorno.  Mi dispiace, non parlo l’italiano bene”.  (Hello.  I’m sorry, I don’t speak Italian well) That got a slightly warm response.  “Formaggio, per favore, parmigiano – grated, per favore”.   She nodded and chopped a fresh piece of parmesan and handed me a ½ inch slice.  I said “Non.  Mi dispiace.  GRATED” and proceeded to do a motion with my right fist going back and forth over the open palm of my left hand. “Grated” I said again.  Aha – she understood!  She then grated the big slice of parmesan and tried to hand me the big bag of grated cheese.  “Non.” I said.  “Mi dispiace. Mi dispiace!  Only a small amount”, as I made the gesture of small with my thumb and fore finder.   “Aha” she said “Piccolo!”  “Si – piccolo!” I responded.  By this time, I can feel the sweat starting to run down my forehead – is it warm in here or is it just me?  She handed me a bigger amount of cheese than I need, but I decide it’s easier to just take it at this point and we’ll probably eat it up in the 5 days anyway.  I thank her and then try to explain to her who I am with a combo of Italian and English.  She is the owner of the grocery store and has been here for many years so she knows Pamm’s immediate family as well as all of the cousins who live and work in town.  “Grazie mille.  Mi chiamo Linda.  Io staying at Casa Pellegrini.  Pamela e mio amico”.  JACKPOT!  Her face lights up at the names and she comes out from around the deli case to shake my hand.  She spouts out some things in Italian; I think she is asking where Pamm is.  I apologize again and tell her (as best I can) that she is in Marina di Grosseto with Patrizia (everyone knows Patrizia and that gets another good smile and nod), that she’ll be here later – qui piu tardi.   By this time 3 other people have appeared out of nowhere to stand behind me and the store owner tells them who I am.   Greetings, smiles, handshakes – oh this is good, this is very good!  I leave the store to many Ciao’s and waves and smiles.  I feel like I am floating on air and I feel a little dizzy.  I’ve taken my first baby step, I stumbled and tripped, but I didn’t fall. 

I rush home – it’s all of a 45 second walk – and excitedly tell Marilee of my grocery store adventure.  I come in to find her playing “camp” by the way she is using the one electric burner and the fire place to make a grand feast.  The normally 1 hour cooking time ended up closer to 2 hours, but we didn’t care – the food was fantastic and she had even started a pot of soup for dinner.  Mama Marilee is in a queen in her Tuscany kitchen! 

We decide we are going to do some more shopping after lunch – I need post cards and stamps, she needs to get money from the bank and we need a few more ingredients for dinner.  We are giddy with excitement! 

The first stop is post cards.  Pamm asked me to pick up a few for her as well and in the end I bought 25, and some gum.  The husband and wife who own the store were speechless.  I said “Per mi famiglia e mi amico’s” (for my family and friends).  The wife responded “Mama mia!  Tanto e tanto!  (My goodness! Lots and lots!) I asked about airmail stamps, they said I had to go to the post office.  Sweet – another stop to make! Marilee also buys a few things.  This is good – we’re spreading our cash around. 

Next stop – stamps.  I ask for air mail stamps to USA.  She asks how many – quanti?  I say venti cinque (25).  Again – Mama Mia!  Venti cinque?   Si, I respond.  She had to go back and check her stock, I almost bought it all.   She shoots – she scores!

Marilee goes into the bank, alone.  The bank entrances here are very strange – smart, but strange.  You step into a canister kind of entry way. You have to open the outside door, step in, and then must close the outside door before the inside door will open.   It reminds me of the transporter room on the Star Ship Enterprise and I imagine that Marilee will get beamed up at any moment.  I sit outside on a wall across the street and wait for her to return from that strange place.  While I am sitting there, I hear a spirited conversation off to my left – I hear the words American and Pellegrini…

Marilee emerges from the bank unharmed but didn’t have any fun; the teller was not in a good mood.  We move onto the second grocery store in town and proceed to continue on with our “Winning over the townspeople” tour.  

Pamm returns later that night and we are regale her with the tales of our day.  She is proud of my work done in the grocery store and asks that I pick up some cheese and salami for dinner tomorrow night. She has to go back into Grosseto for another meeting.  I go to sleep that night anxious for tomorrow to come so I can do more shopping and meet more people.

Ciao!