Positano 7/25 – 7/29

7/25

I still didn’t feel quite 100% and dread the thought of taking a bus from Sorrento to Positano because I was worried I might get sick on the trip.  I talked to the hotel manager about it and he suggested I hire a car, that way we could stop if I needed to.  He showed me the brochure, 60 euros.  I hesitated and he said he knew a different driver, a friend, who was not with the service and he thought he could get me a lower price.  He made a call and got me a price of 40 euros.  Still higher than the bus, but I took it for the convenience and comfort.   The driver was very nice and attentive; made sure I had cold water to drink and was constantly checking to make sure I was feeling alright.   The trip itself was breathtaking as we drove the twisty, windy roads along the cliffs of the coast.  I’m not sure if it was the residuals of the migraine or the road but I actually felt a little car sick for the first time in my life. 

I stayed at the Hotel Savoia in Positano; it is a Rick Steves’ recommendation.   

When we got there the driver carried my bag in and told the hotel clerk that I wasn’t feeling well and to take care of me.   My room wasn’t quite ready so the clerk made me sit down while she got me a bottle of cold water, a cold towel for my neck and a cappuccino – because, she said, cappuccino’s cure everything.   When she got the call that my room was ready, she took me to it to make sure it was OK and that I was comfortable.  Lovely people, absolutely lovely and the room was very nice.     

I had arrived around 1pm so I decided to chill out for a bit as I waited for the heat of the day to pass.  I went into the common room where there is a bar and breakfast area.  The guy working the bar immediately asked how I was feeling.   He said the girl at the counter is his sister and told him that I was not feeling well.  (I had been at the hotel for all of 20 minutes.)  He handed me a cold bottle of water and when I went to pay for it, he refused my money.  He said I needed to get better soon because no one is allowed to be sick in Positano.  I love this place…

I stepped out onto the balcony to take a few photos. 

When I was done I sat down at a table.  The bartender came out and asked me to please come back inside, it was too hot and I needed to stay cool so my illness would pass.    I want to live in this hotel and be adopted by this family…

As the day progressed, I felt much better and ventured out to get my first look at the town and to find food.  As I was leaving the front desk clerk asked how I was feeling and I told her that she was right, cappuccinos really do cure everything.  She gave me a card for the hotel and told me that if I started to feel sick again, to call and she would send someone to wherever I am so they can walk me back to the hotel.   (ADOPT ME!!!)

Before I leave the hotel I asked about boats to Capri.  There is a “fast boat” like taxi that would get me there in 30 minutes, but I tell her I am looking for more or a tour kind of thing. The clerk has just the boat in mind and makes a call – lucky me, I get the last spot available for tomorrow.  It’s a 60 euro pop but the hotel clerk assures me that it will be worth it.  She says it a slow leisurely ride and they go all around the Island, taking us to places where the bigger fast boats cannot go.  She also told me to wear or pack my swimsuit because sometimes they take the group to a cove for a swim.  Sweet! 

I take off to explore my ‘hood’.  The hotel is right around the corner from the pedestrian-only street that leads down to the harbor.  So although it doesn’t have a seaside view, it is still a great location.

Walking down to the harbor, window shopping –

 Made it!

I spot a church near the beach, so you know I have to go in…  It’s the Church of Santa Maria Assunta.  Hanging above the Alter is a painting of the Black Madonna.  

The local legend is that pirates had it on their ship and a violent storm churned up and threated to sink the ship.  The painting spoke to the pirates saying “Posa posa” (lay me down) and the ship glided safely into the harbor.  The pirates were so freaked out by the experience that they immediately left their lives of crime and became Christians.  The locals kept the painting and the town became known as Posa-tano.   

More street walking –

On the recommendation of a friend, I had dinner at a restaurant on the beach named Le Tre Sorella.  It was magical.  I sat there until after 10 and just took in the night beach scene.  This is one of my favorite things about the majority of restaurants I have visited in Italy, nobody makes you feel rushed.  Nobody pressures you to leave.   You decide when you are ready to go and you’re the one that has to flag down the waiter to let them know.  Sitting there with an empty glass means nothing and the waitstaff will leave you alone.  If you want another drink, you have to tell them – if you want the check, you have to tell them, sometimes more than once.  Sweet…

7/26

I am at the beach at 8:45am, the boat leaves at 9:15.  By the looks of things, this is not an early rising town…

The boat has 30 passengers, a captain and a multi-lingual tour guide.  We take off from Positano harbor for what turns out to be a 3+ hour slow ride to Capri.    

I don’t have a nautical map to tell you the exact route we took, but basically we hugged the Amalfi Coast from Positano and then crossed the open sea to Capri.   All the while, I am staring down at the bluest water I have ever seen.

One of the many caves we explored on the Island of Capri

This cave is known for a stalagmite formation in the upper cave that looks similar to the statues of Mary holding the baby Jesus…

See it?

Eenie meenie miney moe,

catch a rich man by the toe,

if he hollers let him go,

but steal his yacht!

I’ll take this one!

The Green Grotto – the water looks more blue to me, but who am I to argue...

The infamous Blue Grotto  – that sucking that you hear is the Capri vacuum taking all the tourist money for a 10 minute glance at really blue water.  It cost 15 euros to go into the Grotto and while you are being brought back out, the rower guy does his best to pressure you into tipping him.  Both our boat captain and the tour guide told us it was not worth the money but if we do go to not give any tips. 

The actual entrance.

As we were watching the little row boats going into the cave, waves would actually overtake it and completely cover the cave opening.   The water was rough as well and we watched several of the row boats bang against the walls of the cave when going in and coming out.  After seeing that, I decided not to do it.  Small spaces are one thing, but this was a bit too much for my comfort level.  Only a few people from our boat went in.   After we left there, our boat captain took us to another place that he knew of with a free blue grotto.  We could not get really close because of the size of our boat, but our captain made sure we could all get a peek of it.    It is pretty much like the waters around the Green Grotto, just a more intense and brighter blue. 

After that, we docked in Capri.

 

I paired up with some of my shipmates and hired a driver to take us around the Island. Yes, it was an expensive day, but today is all we have.  I have money today, I am in Capri today – nuff said.  I shared the ride with a couple on their honeymoon from Brazil and a family from Canada and our driver, of course, was Italian so we were a true international crowd.  Our driver spoke Italian, Spanish, French and English and we had a great afternoon talking in all of these languages. 

Our driver first took us to Ana Capri, which is the less touristy area of the island.  Getting there was great fun as the road is just a hair wider than a standard American single lane road but it is a two-way street.   Whoever gets to the road first, that is the direction of traffic that wins for the moment and the other cars have to pull over if they can’t squeeze by.  The majority of cars I saw all have scratches on both sides and lots are missing side view mirrors…

Once in Ana Capri, he dropped us off for an hour so we could take the chairlift to the top of the island for the best view anywhere.   That boy in the ball cap is David – from Canada.  He and I became great pals that day…  I was reminded of just how much I miss hearing my nieces and nephews say my name. 

Time for a refreshment break!

My attempt at taking a photo of the smallest humming bird I have ever seen.

Time to go back down, at one point we actually went through the clouds. 

Our driver then took us to further into the town of Ana Capri to a non-tourist restaurant for lunch.  It was a great inexpensive meal  and we all had a great time getting to know each other.  I told them of my trip and the couple from Brazil asked me what I missed the most from America, I responded “a really good hamburger.”  Everyone got a good laugh out of that.    

After lunch, we were taken to Capri to do some window shopping.  Well, we tried, but…. I had to buy a watch, because mine broke a while back, so I just had to!  Ah Capri, a beautiful town.

All good things must come to an end and we met up with our driver to take us back to the boat.  We had been on Capri for 5 hours and the captain warned us that he would not hold the boat for anybody.  Well, we got stuck in traffic – literally.  A tour bus and a garbage truck (driving in opposite directions) tied up traffic because they got stuck as they were just a little too wide for a particular section of the road.  Luckily our driver knows our boat captain and gave him a call explaining the situation.  It took the bus and truck almost 10 minutes of inching back and forth before they could get past each other.  And we all saw the fresh deep gashes on the side of the pretty tour bus when it finally passed us.  I bet car insurance is through the roof over here.

We get back to the boat and shove off just a little behind schedule.  Our tour guide handed out beer and sodas and asked if anyone would be interested in taking a swim.   We all responded YES!   The captain took us into a remote cove close enough to the shore that there weren’t any other boats around but far enough out so we could jump and dive from the boat.  He said it is 40 feet to the bottom of the sea, yet when you look down from the boat (and when treading water) you can see the bottom.  It was heaven.  Someone mentioned sharks, so the tour guide did the top secret Capri shark repellent dance to ensure our safety.  After a moment’s hesitation I silenced the theme song from Jaws that had started in my head and jumped off the side of the boat.   The moment I hit the water I was at ease.   The sea is so salty it makes you extremely buoyant and you can tread water with the smallest of moves.  And I swear something about the salty water just makes your body feel good – all the aches and pains vanish.     Just like in Vernazza in the Cinque Terra.  But the water here, it was so incredibly blue.  It was wonderful. 

After 30 minutes or so, we were called back in as it was time to go.  It is amazing what a swim will do for you and by now all of us on the boat are comfortable in each other’s company and really enjoying ourselves.  And then the tour guide said the magic words - champagne anyone?  I am loving this tour!  We killed a few bottles of bubbly, had some fancy Italian cookies and then settled in for the boat ride home.   This time the captain took a more direct route but he still drove slowly and it took us another hour or so to get back.  We finally hit shore at around 7pm and when we parted from one another hugs, handshakes and Italian check kissing was in order.   It was a wonderful, beautiful, lovely day…

7/27

Today I was tuckered out.  Maybe it was the boat ride or too much sun, who knows but I am as sleepy as a bear looking to hibernate.  So I made it a beach day.  After downing some espressos, I walked down to the harbor and rented a beach chair with an umbrella and curled up with a good book.  I spend most of the day just sitting, watching, occasionally frolicking in the ocean and just being.  It was a great day.  Later that night I had another stellar seafood dinner on the beach – I have eaten so much fish that I may sprout gills.  But when it’s this fresh and so well prepared, I cannot pass it up! 

And, I think I have become dyslexic.  Remember before when I was telling you that I’ve gotten directions to take a right when the actual direction was a left?  Well that is STILL happening.   And here, in this hotel, there is a C on one of the shower dials and an H on the other.   BUT hot water comes out of the C dial and cold comes out of the H…  What is going on?!   And I saw a sign today pointing to the bus stop on the right side of the road, but it is on the left.   I’ve also noticed that I make more “baskets” when throwing trash into the can with my left hand than I do with my right and I’m right-handed!  Or am I???   

7/28

The Canadian couple from the boat told me about a restaurant that I must go to, Il Ritrovo.  It is high above the hills of Positano and they have free shuttle service.  I checked Trip Advisor and sure enough, it is currently ranked #1.  I had the front desk clerk call for me and made arrangements for a lunch pickup at 1:30.

I decided I wanted to take a nice long walk.  So far every time I’ve left the hotel, I’ve taken a right and walked down to the harbor.  Today, I take a left to see where that would lead.   Good choice…

A hardware store built right into the side of the mountain. When you step inside, you are basically stepping into a cave.  

 Same with the ceramic’s factory.

Nice parking spot! 

What came first, the tree or the trellis?

I head back to the hotel to get cleaned up for lunch and my driver shows up right on time.  He then takes me back in the same direction of my walk, but takes a turn that puts us on a road going straight to the very top of the mountain.  My ears even popped!   

Compliments of the Chef – chicken wing, bruschetta, pizza bite & fried zucchini flower. 

Compliments of the owner – limoncello.

Lunch was a 3+ hour experience and at times I was the only person in the restaurant.  But the staff didn't seem to mind and took the opportunity to sit with me and have a cool drink or a glass of wine.  I felt like a guest in their home.  And when they finally did let me leave, the Chef brought me 2 packages of spices to take with me.  The driver then took me back to my hotel and I spent the rest of the day and evening chilling out and watching the Olympics.   The only coverage I can find is for Italy but va bene seeing as I am now part Italian…

7/29

I decided to take a boat, rather than the bus, to Salerno.  It is a 70-90 minute ride down the southern coast.  The boat service has a porter that will come to get my bag and get it to the boat launch, so I take a last stroll down to the harbor and indulge in some last minute people watching while waiting for the boat. 

When the boat arrives at the harbor, I see the porter’s cart but don’t see my bag.  One of the porters asks me if I am waiting for luggage, I say yes.  He's a nice looking guy, I'd guess early to mid 40's, tan, strong, nice smile...  He asks if it’s in the cart, I say no.  Then he points to another porter somewhere on the harbor and asks if that is my bag.  I don’t see where he is pointing. All of a sudden, he grabs me around the waist and pulls me tight against him, then points again.  It was so unexpected I can’t focus on anything…  Then he looks at me; his nose is almost touching my nose, and asks the name of my hotel.  I open my mouth to speak but nothing comes out.   He laughs, releases me and I regain my composer enough to remember the name of my hotel.  He gets on his walkie-talkie and tells me my bag is on my way.  It showed up a few minutes later.     

I take it to the boat launch, give the boat guy my ticket and start to pull my bag down the ramp.  All of a sudden the same porter is next to me, puts his hand on top of mine and asks me to let him carry it.  Once he puts it on the boat, he turns and says (in English):

He:  You coming back in September?

Me: I look around wondering who he is talking to.

He:  (points to me) You come back?

Me: No.

He: Why not?

Me: I have to go home in September.

He: Why?

Me: I’ll be out of money and I need to get a job. 

He: Where you live?

Me: America.

He: No!  You’re not Italian?!

Me: No.  (smiling)

He: Mama Mia!  Where you go now?

Me: Salerno, then Florence, then Tuscany.

He: Positano is more fun than Tuscany.

Me: And more expensive…

He smiles, grabs my shoulders and kisses my checks. 

Me: (smiling) Grazie…

He: Please take off your sunglasses so I can see your eyes.

I do – he takes a breath.  He grabs my face in his hands, pulls me into him and plants a powerful kiss on my lips.  When he releases me I have to lean back against the wall to hold myself up.

He: Now you never forget Positano.  Ciao Bella. 

Me:  Ciao

He strolls off the boat and stands at the edge and waves to me as it putters away from the dock.  In my head I hear Andre Bocelli singing something romantic, imagine the sun setting (even though it is only 11am) and the movie screen fading to black…. Mama Mia....

Next stop – Salerno

Ciao ~