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Broad - Word for a woman. Less respectable than lady but much more respectable than bitch. (Urban Dictionary)

8/16/2012

Semproniano 8/5 - 8/12

8/5
It took me over four hours to get from Florence to here, I took a wrong turn and went a little out of my way but it was a beautiful day and I haven’t driven a car since May so I didn’t mind.  I rented a small Fiat, stick shift, and am enjoying the ride.  The car also has a CD player so I can finally listen to some of the music I have bought along my journey – great stuff.  I will treasure these tunes forever. 

Semproniano (sem-pron-yawn-o) is not on the map but I know that once I get close to Saturnia, I will see road signs for it.  I exit the Autostrada and then the really journey begins.  I first follow the signs to Montepulciano, then Pienza, then Bagno Vignon, then Castiglione d’Orcia, then Castel d. Piano.  I know I am going in the right direction, according to the map but when I see the signs for Arcidossa my heart skips a beat as I am coming into familiar territory.  Right around Arcidossa the roads turn into the kind you see in Formula One Racing, twists and turns everywhere and scenery that takes your breath around every bend.  Italy is also suffering from the 2012 heat wave and there is a lot of brown out there, but it is still a beautiful sight to behold.  






After the signs for Arcidossa comes Roccalbegna, then Sartunia and then I see the first sign for Semproniano and I am so glad as my heart and arms are getting warn out from the serpentine driving course  I have been on for the past hour.  I am anxious to get there as I know Pina is waiting for me and is probably worried as it is almost 4pm. 

 
When I finally do pull up to the house’s front door, she is out on the stoop before I can turn off the ignition and her husband, Aimone (eye-moan-e), is right behind her.  It is so good to be back at my Tuscany home…  I try to take a photo, but she says no and makes a gesture that she is not presentable in her house dress.  She’s adamant about it so I stash my camera for another day.

The moment I get in the house she is asking if I am hungry.   I say “non grazie, Pina” but she just keeps asking so I finally have to tell a white lie that I stopped and had a sandwich in Arcidossa.   Casa Pellegrini is closed up like a can of sardines, so Pina and I make the rounds to open windows and doors, the check every light switch to make sure they work, then turn on every faucet to make sure the water is working, then turn on every gas burner and light them to make sure the gas is on.  It’s a ritual I remember from last time and know understand how treasured these moments are with her.   She must make sure that everything is in order and that I am completely comfortable in the environment.   She says something I don’t understand, I make the ‘wait’ and find my Rick Steves Italian phase book but the word she is saying is not listed.   She yells for Aimone, it’s more like a screech than a yell, which makes me laugh that such a big sound comes out of such a small woman as she only about 4 feet tall.  Aimone appears out of nowhere (kind of like Lurch did on the old Adams Family TV show) and he is carrying her glasses and an Italian/English dictionary.   He hands them to her and turns and goes back to his chair in the living room, he is watching the Olympics.  Pina points to him, says “mama mia” and finds the word she is looking for, which is bed. 

We walk up the stairs to the bedrooms; this part of the house belongs to her and Aimone.  Casa Pellegrini does have a small windowless bedroom on the first floor but when available, Pina offers hers as they are roomier and have windows.   For this stay, I am in ‘Pamela’s room’ which she has already made up for me.  She then shows me where the extra sheets and pillowcases are, we open and close every drawer, then she takes me in to the bathroom so we can turn on and off every faucet and then motions for me to unpack and get settled.   As she is walking down the steps, she turns and asks me if I am hungry…  “Non Pina, grazie.”      

window view 

to the left

and to the right is the town plaza 


Out the bedroom door and down the steps, I sneak a picture of Aimone as he is reading the newspaper.

I found an English/Italian dictionary in Casa Pellegrini and stick it in the back pocket of my shorts as I am going need a better reference than the limited one in my phrase book.  I go back downstairs and find Pina busy in her kitchen, I ask if I can help and she says “Non Linda, non” and tells me to go and rest from my drive.  So I go back over to Casa Pellegrini and sit out on the balcony off of the kitchen – this will be my view for the next 4 weeks or so. 

The town is bustling as it is tourist season.   At one point, I count 27 people on the town plaza.  It’s a mob scene!   August is one of the busiest months for tourist in Semproniano.  It is mostly family members coming back to spend time with parents and grandparents that still live here.   I sit for a spell and smell the clean mountain air as I hear Italian echoing throughout the streets.  It is so incredibly peaceful…  I hear the smack of Pina’s cane on the stone floor as she nears, she calls for me - it’s dinner time. 

She has made a wonderful feast of chicken, veggies and salad; there is also bread, cheese, salami and homemade wine from Grosseto.  I know it’s homemade because it is in an old plastic liter bottle.  Aimone also gave me a big bottle of homegrown Olive Oil (again, not in a store bought olive oil bottle) and said for me, for my kitchen.  After dinner, I try to tell Pina that I don’t want her to cook for me all the time. That dinner is fine but I will make my own breakfast and lunch, that I don’t want her to treat me like a guest and that I want to help cooking and cleaning, wherever I can.  She gets frustrated that she can’t understand what I am saying as I’m nervous and my pronunciation suffers for it.  So she calls her daughter Laura, who speaks English, to help.  I met Laura in May and she knew Pina would be calling at some point, we laughed about that.  I told her what I want Pina to know and she laughs and says “I’ll tell her, but she won’t like it.  She wants to take care of you.”  Laura told me to be patient and just try to help a little every day and it will get easier.   She was right, Pina will not let me clear the table nor help with the dishes – not tonight anyway.   But I’ve got time and I am resolved to wear her down…    


8/6
Set to getting the house in order and visiting all the stores in town to spread my money around to let them know I am here, which many already know because of Pina.  I spent 51 euros in the grocery store, which caused quite the commotion.  I stopped in the ‘hardware store’ next to Casa Pellegrini, it is run by Annedia (ah-nay-e-dah) to buy two chairs for the kitchen balcony but she only had one in the store, she will have to check her stock for another.   I stopped in the bakery, then Bar Sport for cappuccinos, then the Tabaccheria (tobacco shop) for post cards and last the post office for stamps, I bought out their stock – they had 5… 

Pina wants to do my laundry.  I explain that all of my clothes are delicate because they are falling apart and I must wash them by hand.  She assures me the washer has a gentle cycle and insists I hand it over.   So I do…  She and I are having a hard time communicating, it sometimes gets frustrating but we get through it.  We both carry our own Italian/English dictionaries at all times and Aimone smiles at us as we both sit with our noses in our books looking for words.   He is so sweet but very, very quiet.  Pina is the talker and is like the town mayor when we sit outside on the benches.  She talks to everyone who comes by and talks a mile a minute.  She introduces me to everybody and tells them of my vacation and rattles off some of the places I have been and all congratulate me on my great travels.   

Maurio is the 88 year old man that runs the gas station next door.  He is a funny old man who has taken a shine to me.  Whenever he sees me sitting outside on the benches he wobbles on over, leans down and pinches my cheeks then hugs me and kisses on  my checks.   He tries to go for my lips but I bob and weave quickly enough to avoid it.  Lord help me...  Pina came out the front door shortly after one of his covert attempts and that made him move on.  I told her what he did and she laughed so hard she had to sit down.   She told me to slap him if he tries again.  I told her I didn’t want to hurt his feelings, she told me not to worry.   When I came back in the house, I see a second chair sitting on the balcony.  Annedia found a second one in her stock and Pina bought it, she would not let me pay.  She pointed to them and said “Pamela e Dominic” and then said “Linda e Pina”.  I just love her.

I took a walk around town today to get reacquainted with what will be my surroundings for the next few weeks.  I have walked these streets several times now, but each time is like the first…



This was my walking companion for the day.  He stayed with me for the 30+ minute stroll, sometimes he decided which way we would go, sometimes I did.




This is a popular mode of transportation around town, used to haul all kinds of things, including people.









8/7
I went to the butchers to pick up some chicken.   They don’t have any meat or poultry in the two grocery stores in town, that is what the butcher is for.   When it is finally my turn I give them my line about not speaking much Italian and one of the men said “Ah, voi American!  Pina’s American!”  He refuses to sell me the chicken he has in the display case.  He says it is old and tells me to come back later tomorrow afternoon as a fresh supply will be delivered. 

After Pina and I have coffee at Bar Sport we are sitting outside on the family benches when a neighbor lady stops.  Pina’s neighbor took some English classes and asks Pina if she can take me to her house for a drink.  Pina says yes, the woman takes my hand and I am led away.  It is the door in between the gas station and Pina’s house.  The outside entrance is very plain, looking just like all the other stone house fronts but when we step inside her house, it is like a palace.  Inlaid marble floors, 100’s of years old, glass walls, fine china and cabinetry.   Her English is decent and we can pick our way through a pretty good conversation. She proudly shows me the books she has from a past English class as well as her exams and grades.  She is lovely.   After we finish our drink, she takes me by the hand and leads me back to Pina’s house.  Over dinner Pina tells me that the neighbor is very wealthy and has several homes all over Italy.  

Tonight there is a free movie being shown in the town’s church plaza. There is no movie house in town so this is a very big thing.   They hang a big movie screen in front of the church doors and have chairs setup in the small parking lot. 

I went with Pina and Aimone and we are greeted by everyone we pass.  Many shake my hand and welcome me to town, asking how long I will stay, where I have been, etc.  Pina is constantly talking for me, saying I don’t speak much Italian and asking everyone if they speak English.   As all settle in to get ready to watch the movie, I hear ‘American’ and ‘Alfredo Pellegrini’ being mumbled by many in the crowd.  There were 200 chairs setup in the church parking lot and by the start of the movie they were filled with local residents.  It turned out to be a romantic comedy (in Italian, of course) and has some mild sex scenes which made Pina put her hands over her eyes and make “mama mia” and “oh Madonna" comments.  Just to clarify, she is not referring to the Madonna the rock star…  


8/8
I gave Casa Pellegrini a good cleaning today and mopped all the floors including the common entry way and the front door steps.  Pina was very appreciative and told all her girlfriends of how good of a cleaner I am.  My mother would be proud…     

Just as I was sitting down to lunch, Pina came barreling in the front door calling for me as if something terrible had happened.  Io qui, Pina!  (I’m here, Pina!)   Linda - pollo e qui!  Pollo a qui! (Chicken is here) She grabs my arm and pulls me to the butcher right away so I can get it before the crowd shows up.   She asks for one chicken breast and I watch as the butcher fillets it in a matter of seconds like I have never seen before.  He makes a slice, then opens it, then slices again and repeats this four times.  Then he pounds it to 1/8-1/4 thickness and cuts it into three pieces.   I am amazed that one chicken breast can stretch into so much meat.  I have one of the pieces for lunch and surprised to find that it is enough to eat.  All this time, I have been making an entire chicken breast for a meal, but here I find that a third is plenty.  Why is that?  I also asked for a few thin slices of bacon, the raw pancetta.   Pina asks why, I tell her it is for an American breakfast with eggs.  The butcher understands and gives me two slices, each about a half inch thick.  I realize he has no idea what I meant by thin but I accept the slices graciously and will figure out a way to make them work.  Note to self – next time ask for the ground sausage…   

For dinner tonight, Pina made me bean soup.  I am not a bean soup eater, but as she made it just for me I don’t mention that and figure I will eat it regardless.  It is the most delicious soup I have ever had!  It’s a very thick broth but there are no whole beans because after she cooks them and the rest of the ingredients, she puts it all through a mill and grinds it to make is smooth.  She shows me how she prepared it by boiling the beans in salted water for 10 minutes or so, with a sprig of sage and a piece of whole garlic. That is it.  I can’t believe that I love bean soup!

8/9
Today, after my morning cappuccinos, I was greeted by the woman who runs the bar across the street from Casa Pellegrini.  She says hello and invites me in to see her bar.  Pamm and her family have always referred to it as the ‘Communist Bar’ and they tell me they’ve never been inside.    I am a little nervous as I don’t know if I am being kidnapped or not, but I decide to take a chance as the woman seems to be nice enough.   It’s a small plain space with only two tables inside and has a second room that has a pool table.  I don’t know if the bar is still associated with the Communist Party, I don’t see any obvious signs nor paraphernalia advertising it as such, all Pina has told me is that it is a private club.  I see the cappuccino machine behind the bar.  I point to it and say “Io qui domain per mio cappuccino” (I here tomorrow for my cappuccino), she smiles and say “va bene!”  I tell her my name and ask hers – it’s Cinzia (chin-sea-ah).  I thank her and leave because today is market day and Pina is waiting for me.

But first, a few words from a friend of mine in regards to the “Communist Bar” -   
Tuscany is a region of forward thinking, independent, humanists....  A direct result of their openness to Platonic thought that brought them out of the Dark Ages into the Renaissance.  As such, they courageously developed a resistance to the authoritarian Statism/Fascism of Mussolini and Hitler.  They sought in communism an answer to the rightist dictators, speaking out for workers' rights.  Remember that the Vatican sided with Mussolini and his henchmen, turning aside as Jews were lead to slaughter.

At great peril, Pitigiano (a town near Semproniano) gave shelter to persecuted Jews.  I think there are still houses of worship there with the Star of David.  Families hid their copper pots and gold wedding rings and anything else that was made of valuable metals up in the attic under secret floorboards so that when Mussolini's Black Shirts came through to confiscate for munitions, there was nothing in the house to contribute.

The history of Italy is full of examples where ruling classes (including the church) owned all the land, oppressing the peasants, fomenting uprisings of frustrated independents.  I admire them all, including the communists, to stand up to the oppressors.  The Italian communists, who originally were Marxists, were on the side of the Allied forces (US, England, France) in the overthrow of Fascism.  They were the resistance fighters that the Yanks counted on to support the invasion. Later, they became disenchanted with the Russian style Communist Party as Stalin shaped history, and continued on their own path to give voice to truly Italian welfare of the worker.  So hop hip hoorah for those brave souls. 

Every Thursday is market day.   The market consist of two fresh produce stands, a fish stand, a cheese stand, a shoes stand, two or three clothing stands and a household goods stand.  Pina points to the household goods and tells me not to go there, to go to her friends Annedia’s store if I need things.   I bought a pair of sandals and sneakers, spending a total of 47 euros.   Sweet!  And then I stood in line for over 30 minutes at the produce stand.  They are the busiest booths at the market and are almost picked clean by the end of afternoon.   One of the grocery stores in town does carry some produce, but nothing like this selection.  I love market day! 

I wanted a new bath mat for Casa Pellegrini, so after we are done at the market Pina takes me to Annedia’s shop.    Annedia makes me take the mat over to the house and see how it looks in the bathroom before I buy it.  Pina makes me repeat this process with several mats until she is positive that I am happy with my selection.   I also bought a small radio/tape/CD player for the house so I can play the CDs I have purchased on my trip.   Later that afternoon Pina ask to come into Casa Pellegrini to see how the bath mat looks and to listen to the CD player to make sure all the buttons work.  She approves of my purchases and compliment me on a job well done.  

Pina had left over zucchini from last night’s dinner so for lunch she made some pasta and tossed it all together.  Normally I make my own lunch, but she says when she makes pasta that I should eat with them.   It is a very hot day and she tells me she and Aimone must take a nap after lunch.  So we don’t eat together, instead she dishes out a plate for me, hands it to me and then says “ciao, ciao” telling me it is time to go.   

At dinner tonight I got a little bolder and showed up a few minutes before 8pm, which is the normal dinner time.  Then I proceeded to open the utensil drawer and set the table, just the silverware and napkins because Aimone puts out the plates, olive oil, bread and wine.  I am very conscious of not overstepping my bounds.  These two work in concert with one another and I don’t want to intrude, just help.  After dinner I was allowed to help clear the table but when I went to touch the facet to rinse the plates I got a scolding from Pina.  Baby steps Linda, baby steps…

August is festival month in Semproniano and there are concerts and shows all around town almost every night.    Tonight there is a free classical concert half way up one of the hills in town in a small plaza; it is just flute and guitar.   The three of us head on up and take our time as it is quite the climb.  We have to stop several times for Pina and Aimone to catch their breath.   No worries, the concert says it will start at 9:30 but as I have come to find out nothing starts on time in Semproniano.   Sure enough, the show doesn’t get started until 9:50.  In between the musical pieces, a gentleman reads poetry that he wrote about Semproniano.  I don’t know what he is saying but the town folks like it and say “Brava” after almost every poem.  It’s a great show and I can easily see how much Pina enjoyed it.  I think Aimone did too but he doesn’t say much. 

At first I felt a bit out of sorts with Aimone because he is so quiet.  I wasn’t sure if he is happy I am here or if I am imposing upon his quiet life with Pina.   But the more time I spend with him, the more relaxed I am and the more I feel he is warming up to me.  Every day he smiles a little easier with me and I think he likes how I watch out for Pina when we are walking around town.

It’s almost 11p when the concert is over.  After we get back home, I take a short walk to check out the stars at the edge of town.   I can see the Milky Way and am seeing constellations I don’t remember ever seeing before.  One even looks like a full circle of stars.   As I am walking back home, I see Beatrice and her husband whom I first met in 2006 on the Totally Tuscany cooking trip.  I say “Ciao, io Linda from Hershey!”   It’s a great reception and we talk (kind of) a bit and make plans to visit while I am here to drink coffee and wine.   When I get back to the house, Pina is coming out the door to meet up with her girlfriends at the Plaza and asks me to come along.  Aimone is watching TV.  This is their routine at night.  I go along with Pina and around 11:30 I say goodnight.  Pina explains to her friends that I don’t sleep in the afternoon and that is why I am tired.   I am probably one of the only people that don’t nap in the afternoon.   I say goodnight to her, kiss her checks and come back home.  When I shut the door, Aimone steps out of his living room door and says “Pina?”  I tell him she is still in the plaza.  He makes the “talking” motion with his hand; I laugh and say ‘Si’.  I say good night and then go over and kiss his cheeks.  When I step back he smiles, reaches out and touches my cheek.  Progress is being made.

8/10
I went for cappuccinos at the Communist Bar, which I will now refer to going forward as Cinzia’s club…  I talked with her as best as I could, referring to my dictionary often.   She is a very pretty woman with long, curly black hair and has beautiful eyes that she paints with thick black eyeliner.  She looks kind-of like what some would think of an evil witch from a fairy tale, but a beautiful evil witch.   I’m guessing she is around my age.  She tells me she opens the cafĂ©/bar at 6am and closes at 2am.  She says she only needs three hours of sleep.   She has owned the club for two years, was married is now divorced and says it is good that I am solo.  I make the hand motion sometimes yes, sometimes no – she understands and agrees.  I point to the pool table; she asks if I play, I say ‘non bene’.   She tells me to come back and play some time.  I ask if she has Vodka, telling her Bar Sport is out and so is the grocery store.  She laughs and shows me a bottle, then points to a list of shots on the wall and then talks about other drinks.  I thank her for the cappuccinos, tell her they are much better than Bar Sport (because they are) and ask if I can come back again and she says “Si”.  I thank her and say I will see her later.  Basically I see her several times all day long as the bar is 15 steps from our front door and she is almost always sitting on a chair outside the bar’s front door.   I like her and the others people that hang out here, they always say hello to me as we sit outside on our appointed seats.   One of the girls lives directly across the street from Pina on the 2nd or 3rd floor and has a big dog that sits on the 2nd floor balcony and barks at people. That girl called to me today from the 3rd story window and indicated that she knew I had coffee at the bar and asked if I liked it. 

Later in the morning I walk the town with Pina as she does her daily shopping and then we stopped at Bar Sport to have a coffee with her best friend Emily.  The coffee was just ok and I told both of them that it is better at Cinzia’s club.  They were intrigued and I get the feeling they’ve not had coffee there before.   On our way back home we pass the tourist office and I tell Pina it has not been open since I’ve been in town.  I am looking for a detailed map of the surrounding area so I can do some exploring since I have a car.  This puts a fire under her to find out why the office isn’t open, when it will be and where I might find a map.  It became the mission of the day!   No one knows the answers to any of these questions, but Pina is not giving up and tells me not to worry.   

A little before 7pm I take a stroll up to the pizza restaurant as it is the only place in town that has WIFI.  The old men are sitting across the way at the gas station see me walking with my little carrying case and a buzz starts about what the American is doing…   

This photo shows a slow day at the station, normally there are 6-10 guys sitting there.

I sit down and do some typing while I am waiting for the restaurant to open and one of the men walks over from the station then moves to stand behind me looks over my shoulder.  I explain to him that I am writing a journal about my vacation and I put it on the Internet for my friends and family to read.  I show him the computer and screen, how I type, and showed him some photos as well.  He is fascinated.  Then I opened solitaire and showed him how I could play cards, this just blew him away.   The restaurant opened and I motioned that I was going in, he thanked me, patted me on the head, said “Brava!” and then went back to his post at the gas station to give the rest of the guys a report.  When I was done and walked past them on my way home, they yelled “internet” and “brava” and gave me the thumbs up sign. 

That night I went with Maria (a woman my age and a friend of Pina’s) to see a dance show held down at the tennis courts, another festival show.   There are dance troupes of all ages, little tykes that can only march and do hand movements to senior citizens waltzing and fox trotting.  Many are from here but some are also from dance schools in the surrounding towns.  It is extremely entertaining and I am completely impressed by how many dancers there are.  Couples dancing (foxtrot, waltz, tango, etc.) is a big thing here and has been going on long before “Dancing with the Stars”.   The show started around 9:30p and went on until midnight.  Even the little ones were still dancing at midnight. Crazy…    Maria rambles on to me in Italian, I’ve told her several times that I don’t understand but it doesn’t slow her down.  So I just keep nodding and smile.  When she finally says “comprendere” (understand) I shake my head no and she smacks my arm.  Sometimes when she rambles on I say “blah, blah, blah, blah” back to her and it makes her laugh.  She then puts her arm through mine and leads me to where she wants me to go.      


8/11
After my morning cappuccinos and breakfast, Pina asks me to go to bar sport for coffee and then we make the rounds for her shopping errands.  I am like her shadow and I don’t mind it one bit.   We see the same people as every day, yet they greet her (and me) as if we haven’t seen each other in weeks.   And then when we, or I, see them again and again throughout the day we say hello over and over again.   Everyone is just so friendly. 

In the bakery, Pina introduces me to Moreno (mor-e-no), a nice looking guy somewhere around my age.   He is from Semproniano but lives in England and he speaks fluent English, which makes Pina happy because I have someone I can talk to.  Everyone we meet, she asks if they speak English.  She is afraid I don’t like the town because I can’t talk to anyone.  I assure her that I am fine, but still she worries.   So when she finds out that Moreno is in town for the month visiting his parents, she is very happy.   Pina tells him to come and visit me anytime so I can talk to someone and he says he will.

Today was wash day and Pina and I figured out how to operate the washer in Casa Pellegrini.   She says the machine is better than hers and is newer, then had to show me her washer and explain every knob and switch and how to set it for every type of load.  I’ll never remember all of that…  After the wash is done, she takes me upstairs to show me how to hang the wash on the clothes line.  No one has dryers here only clothes lines, and after the clothes are dry most everything is ironed.    

Pina told me she is making pasta for lunch and invites me to come and again allows me to set the table.  She makes another stellar lunch, pasta tossed with the leftover fish from last night.   When I get into the kitchen she shows me that she made green beans just for me.  I don’t like green beans, of that I am sure…   I can’t tell her that after she went to all the trouble, so I resolve to just eat them and have a glass of water close by to wash them down.   But then another miracle occurs and to my amazement I really like them.   What is going on?!  I told her about the green bean miracle and she said maybe I have to stay in Italy so I will continue to eat my vegetables.    

After lunch she let me hang out in the kitchen and watch her make a kind of Apricot tart for her friend Annedia.  The way she manhandled the dough was amazing, smacking it into the pan with her palm, spreading it out over every inch and just when I’d think she was done, she smack it again as if it was trying to get out or something.  I didn’t get to taste the tart, it is for a baptism tomorrow, but it looked pretty and smelled really good when it was done.

8/12
I went to church with Pina and Aimone today.  Pina sings with the choir but sits in the pew right in front of them so she doesn’t have to leave Aimone’s side.  It is lovely how they are together.  When she is not in the house, he’s looking for her and vice versa.  She always reaches for his hand and he always has a special smile just for her.  She talks, he doesn’t…   A perfect match.

At church, I do my best to sing along with Pina as she points to every syllable in the Italian word.  After the first song she say’s “Linda – brava, brava!” and then loudly whispers to her fellow choir members  10 feet away that I am a singer.   The closing hymn was Salve Maria – I know the tune and can sing out with a bit more confidence.    As we are singing, Pina pushes me up closer to the choir and then stops singing and just smiles up at me with a beam that rips at my heart.  When the song was over she praised me like a mother hen and introduces me to the choir director and tells her I should sing with the choir every Sunday.  The director told me I am welcome to join in if I like and compliments me on my singing. 

Pina and Aimone are gone all day at the baptism celebration and I have a lovely day talking with some of the town folk as I see them out and about.  By now most know my Italian is very lacking and they speak slowly and use a lot of gestures. There is also a lot of laughing, cheek pinching and cheek patting.   

Pina and Aimone are home around 6pm and are stuffed by the mountain of food that was at the celebration.  I think it took them almost 10 minutes to tell me all that was served.   They make sure that I am OK and tell me that dinner is on my own as they don’t want to look at food for a while and then they go for a nap.  They are back up and moving around 8:30 and are going for stroll around town.  Pina says they don’t it very often anymore as they are getting so old and ask if I would like to come along – I pass as I want them to have some alone time and I think they appreciated it.   I watch as they walk arm and arm down via Roma as I listen to the rhythm of Pina’s cane smacking the pavement of the road.  It is a sound that I have come to recognize and can pick out over top of all other sounds of the town…  

Another lovely ending to a quiet, tranquil day in the glory that is Semproniano…

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