7/18
The trip from Pompeii to Sorrento was an easy one, all I had
to do was jump back on the local train and take it to the last stop, which is
Sorrento. It was only a 40 minute
ride.
Once in Sorrento, I asked about a bus and was told that I
needed to take a taxi. This turned out
to be a lie and, I’m guessing, that the person I spoke with in the Tabacchi
shop may have a deal with the taxi drivers to mislead tourist. The taxi driver also ripped me off as I found
out later from my hotel’s desk clerk. As
I am now on the Amalfi Coast, a tourist haven, it seems I have run across some
dishonest people… Oh well, unfortunately
they are everywhere so I just have to make a stronger effort to sharpen my
spidie sense so I can avoid them. I am
staying at the Hotel Del Mare, which is on the Marina Grande. Marina
Grande is the towns biggest fishing harbor and is outside the city walls of
Sorrento. The hotel itself is very nice
but my room was less than satisfactory for the price I am paying. It’s very small with a single bed, a small
bathroom and a view of a wall. Now I
know that not all rooms can have a view, but e least the hotel could do is put
a “big people” bed in the room along with a comfortable chair.
I asked the front desk if any other room was available, the
manager told me no as they are sold out.
I voiced my disappointment in the room and why. I stated that I meant no disrespect to him,
but I felt cheated because I booked so long ago and I believe I got a lousy
room because I am only a single. I then
asked him if he would be comfortable paying that amount of money to sleep in a
bed that you can’t even turn over in without the danger of rolling out and
having a straight back uncomfortable chair to sit in. He didn't answer the question… I didn't spend a lot of time in the room. Anytime I was working on the blog or surfing the
Internet, I would sit in the beautiful lobby which is surrounded by windows and
beautiful tiles and has very comfortable chairs. One day early in my stay a desk clerk (working
alongside the manager) walked over and to tell me that Internet was available
in my room. I thanked him and told him
that I knew that but that there is nothing comfortable to sit on in my room and
the wall outside my window blocks the light of the sun so I find the room very depressing… From that point on, they graciously welcomed
in the lobby every time I was there. I also spent a lot of time on the roof top terrace;
it was a nice quiet place with a great view of the harbor.
Mt. Vesuvius in the background.
It was very short walk to the harbor, just down the road and
around the corner.
Another unfortunate element occurred here in that I suffered
from migraine headaches most of the time and I am out of my Excedrin Migraine
stock. I visited the Pharmacy a few
times but nothing they gave me could completely knock it out so I just had to
go with the flow. I’m assuming it was
brought on by the humidity and while I was here they had some really intense
rain storms as well. My migraines seem
to be connected to the barometric pressure.
My head tells me when it’s going to rain, my knees tell me when it’s
going to snow - - - I should be a weather girl…
When I could go out, I did.
Since I was staying down at the harbor, when I wanted to go to town I
had to climb up but it wasn’t all that bad and the surrounding sites made the
walk worthwhile.
looking down on Marina Piccolo and the main tourist beaches
Sorrento’ name came from the Greek word for “siren,” the legendary
half-bird, half-women who sang an intoxicating lullaby to hypnotize sailors who
would then crash their boats on the rocks.
I didn't hear any sirens while I was there and since I was on land
already, I felt pretty safe. That is, until I started window shopping… I saw so many pretty things and could have
spent so much money. My saving grace is
that if I buy stuff, it will make my luggage too heavy.
Hey, how’s she doing that?
Mi scusi… Mi scusi Signore. SIGNORE!!! Oops, never mind
Walking back home to the harbor.
Hmm, I wonder if the fish is fresh….
7/19
I had to spend the morning nursing my head, but once it
released its grip I ventured out to get me some grub and see more of the town
while I could.
I found one of my new favorite treats – fried sardines!
I found St. Anthony hanging out downtown; turns out he’s the
patron saint of Sorrento. I found a few
statues of him and they all looked different from one another and very
different from the ones I found in Padova…
The main square in town - Piazza Tasso
This is the first American flag I have seen since Rome - I actually got a little verklempt...
Now here’s something you don’t see every day – a pizza making vending machine!
These are the gardens at the entrance to the Grand Hotel
Excelsior Vittoria. The plaque states
this is where the great tenor Enrico Caruso spent his last days. In walking this path, I can understand why.
I don’t know what this is, but I think it’s broken.
Looking back at the square from the gardens.
Is this a top secret barber shop? Location, location, location…
Street walking…
This street is Via Santa Maria della Pieta and it dates back to 600 BC.
No fish served here!
Chairs at a Gelato shop.
Something to cheer about!
Looking down at Harbor Piccolo, notice how clear the water is.
The walk down to the harbor.
The beaches look so nice because they charge for everything
from entry to using a chair…
I did some shopping for tour boats and then have to make my
way back to the hotel as my head was beginning to come apart again. Lordy me…
But if you gotta have a migraine, at least I’m in a pretty place.
7/20
I had to stay in the dark for most of today, so I camped out
on the terrace hanging in the shadows.
There is also an outdoor shower up here so I can cool down as often as needed.
My head got a reprieve when the sun dipped behind the harbor
cliffs and I took a walk down to the harbor for dinner at Restorante Delfino. Along the way, I found a great spot for a cat
nap.
The restaurant is one recommended in Rick Steves’ Italy book
and is also ranked the number one place to eat at the harbor on Trip Advisor
and both are again right on. The
service, the food, the atmosphere and the location are perfect. The woman who waited on me is Luisa. She, her husband and her two brothers run the
restaurant. She is absolutely lovely and
calls me ‘darling’ and ‘dear one’ all night long. It was her goal to make sure that I had a
great experience and she did not fail.
The restaurant gives everyone a free bruschetta appetizer at the
beginning of the meal and a free shot of homemade limoncello at the end. When
she saw Pedro on my table she just adored him.
When I went to put him away after the first photo, she insisted he must
stay out so he can get some good sea air.
Every time she walked by she would say something to him and tap his
head. She even brought over other customers’
children to meet him. He is such a
popular fellow.
After I had paid my bill, Luisa escorted me to the door
thanking me for coming by and says she has something for me. She
reached behind the counter and pulled out a small bowl that is full of small miraculous
medals. The miraculous medal is known by
many Catholics, it is a medal with an imprint of Mother Mary. She started to tell me the story of the
medal when I stopped her and pulled out the chain I wear around my neck that
has the medal on it. I told her it was
my fathers and that the last thing he said to me was “hold onto this for me,
honey”. She got all teary eyed and
pulled me in for a hug. She told me that
he gave it to me because he knew he had to leave and he knew the medal would protect
me. She told me that he knew that I would
need the medals power to get through life without him. She told me he is always with me, walking
along side me and taking care of me. I can’t
speak, all I can do is look down at this four-foot something woman and wonder what
would make her say such things. She gave
me another hug and gave me a little medal saying it is for Pedro. She again thanks me for coming and says she
hopes I come back. No need for hope,
it’s a sure thing…
I walk back to the hotel, my feet floating a little above
the ground as I hear her words play over in my head and feel their effects in
my heart. What is it with these Italian
people? How is it they get so deeply
into my heart in such a short period of time? As I turn the corner, I look up at my hotel
and see its beauty glowing in the twilight hour.
Less than an hour later there was a tremendous thunder
storm, the wind was so strong that the umbrellas on the roof top terrace were
torn apart. As the clouds opened my migraine
disappears and I am able to get my first goodnights sleep since arriving.
7/21
I awoke with my normal head so I take advantage of every
free moment I’ve got and climb back up into town to see what’s shaking. Sorrento is all about lemons.
They are everywhere and just when I thought I had seen I had
seen everything you can do with them, I see one more as I pass a church getting
ready for a wedding.
Inlaid wood is also a big art here.
After spending most of the day walking around town and
spending my money on some souvenirs, I am back in the main square and looking
at the tourist stand for busses and boat ride info. I am
approached by an Italian young woman selling tickets for a bus tour. It takes you for a 90 minute drive up the
coast and stop at a place to let you take photos and where you can have a shot
of limoncello. When she approaches me, I
say buon journo and she responds in kind and then starts rambling in
Italian. I stopped her (mi dispiace, non
capisco) and she stopped, paused, looked at me and said in broken English,
“where you from?”
Me: America
She: You’re not from Italy?
Me: Non
She: Are you
sure? You look Italian.
Me: (laughing) No –
but thank you.
She: You’re not
Italian?
Me: No.
She: You are – somewhere in your parents’ family, you are.
Me: No, my parents say no.
She: Someone is lying. With your look, you
could be in my family and your accent speaking Italian is very good. You sound Italian.
I thanked her, told her it was a big compliment, asked about
the bus ride and said I’d take a ticket.
It was 10.50 euro’s but I only had 10 in my wallet and told her that I
didn’t have enough. She said “It’s ok,
for you only 10. Family
discount.”
As I get on the bus, she tells me where to sit and then has
words with the man sitting in the driver seat of the bus. She
turns to me and says’ “my Daddy - he thinks you’re Italian too.” I said “I just decided that I am.” She laughs, tells her father, he laughs and
blows me a kiss.
Here are some photos I took while riding the bus
That is Capri in the background.
That was the best 10 euro investment I made… I walk back to the hotel to take a siesta
before dinner and passed more picture worthy sites.
Excuse me, do you carry sandals?
I feel the migraine stirring in my head again and take some
meds I picked up at the pharmacy, but they didn’t stop it so I am down again
for the night. Oh well – I had a break
for a little while. I’m guessing another
storm is on its way.
7/22 & 7/23 – lost to the migraine. My only thought is it I wish is this would
have happened in a place where I had a better hotel room…
7/24
I’m up early and the headache has lifted for the most part,
but I still take it slow and easy. After
living through the haze of head pain for the past two days, I am afraid to do
anything that might bring it back again.
So I spend most of the day on the roof top terrace just soaking in the
sun and listening to the sounds of the harbor.
As it is my last night in town, I went back to the Restorante Delfino
and am welcomed graciously by Luisa. I
had another great meal and incredible experience. This time when I left, she walked me out she
gave me a bottle of their house red to take to my next stop. She is just wonderful.
Sorrento is a ‘gem’ of the Amalfi coast. It’s a great location for day tripping to
Naples, Pompeii, Capri, Positano and all along the Amalfi coast. If you come here, remember to go to the
Restorante Delfino in the harbor and come hungry. I can guarantee you will not be disappointed.
Next stop – Positano
Ciao ~
