Vernazza 6/18 - 6/24, Part 2

6/21

Today I did a whole lot of nothing.  I went down to town for my daily cappuccinos and to grab some supplies and then I headed back up where I parked myself on the balcony and read, wrote a bunch of emails and postcards and worked on the blog.  I went back down for dinner to restaurant #4 and dined on a great plate of pasta and fresh clams in a light pesto sauce - another delicious meal.   Other than those two trips down into civilization, it was a long, lovely, quiet day spent watching, listening, reflecting and writing.   

6/22

Today I took a boat ride along the coast to see the three towns south of Vernazza; they are Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.   I am surprised  that there is not a lot of big boat traffic on this part of the Ligurian sea, but I think it is because they are fishing towns and not big tourist meccas.  I see lots of small fishing boats, some with only oars, and a handful of small sailboats.  On the weekends there is a bit more traffic but not too much.  But somebody rich lives around here as every day I watch a helicopter fly one way in the morning and the other way in the late afternoon.  To the north of Vernazza is Monterosso and that has a bit more beach real estate and night life which brings in more tourist action.  I think that is where the helicopter goes to.     

Here are pictures from Vernazza’s harbor of Monterosso’s harbor.

Water taxi’s

And here we go down the southern coast line – that is one of the railroad tunnels I mentioned earlier.

Corniglia – the boat didn’t stop there, I believe you can only get there by train or car.

A little mudslide damage north of Corniglia. 

Coming in to Manarola’s harbor – you can see some of its hiking trail. 

Passing Manarola and moving south towards Riomaggiore

Coming into Riomaggiore – and one of the breathtaking highways that run along the coast…

Disembarking at Riomaggiore – which is a lot of fun as you actually walk a plank (with rails) to get on and off the boat and the water was mighty choppy. 

After Pedro and I walked the town, we found a place to fuel up and watch the water as we waited for the next boat to come by 2+ hours later. 

Trip back, coming into Vernazza. 

In this shot you can see my room window and balcony.  Look at little bit right of center, see the small white shack with black shutters – to the right of that you see a patch of green – that is the garden below my balcony.  So look up and the window on the left is my bedroom window and there is the balcony where I parked my butt for most of this stay.   And behind there you can see one of the two church towers in town that start ringing at 7am, every hour and half hour, until 10pm. 

Coming into Vernazza’s harbor

Two taxis coming in at the same time.  Fun!

Behind this boat can you see some local boys in swimsuits; they jump into the water when the boats are coming in to ride the waves and shock the tourist.  I watched them one day when the sea was very wild and the waves would actually push them up high enough that they could grab the top of the wall and climb out.   When the water is calm, it is about an 8 foot drop from the harbor ledge to the water.  They and other locals also climb that big rock face behind the boat and jump off.  They are fearless!!!

I had to hit the Gelato place and the Pizza joint to complete my resolution of patronizing all the restaurants on the harbor.  Technically there were two that I missed, three counting the one that opened while I was there, but hey – I did the best I could.  

I make my way back up to my balcony and meet another nice couple that has checked into La Marina Rooms, Ted and Monique are from Atlanta and traveling around Italy for a  ten day vacation.   They are major hikers and have hit all the trails.  Great, friendly, warm people.  We talked a bit - they told me where they had been and where they were off to next and asked about me.  I told them my story and Ted said that I am his hero…   They headed back down to town for dinner, even asked me to join them, but I had already had the Gelato and Pizza so we make a plan to meet later on the balcony for a glass of wine.  By the time they came back, they were both exhausted from the hike and turned in shortly after that so we never did have that glass of wine.  I sat out on the balcony until well after midnight just looking up at the stars.    

6/23 –

Ted told me that the bar that just re-opened had a sign out that they serve an American breakfast of bacon and eggs, so I had to trek down the steps for that.  The last American breakfast I had was in April.   The Italian breakfast consists of small pastries, cereal, yogurt and coffee – which is fine but as soon as Ted mentioned bacon and eggs, I had to have some…   They tasted great and the chicken that laid the eggs must have been very happy as they were a beautiful yellow orange color.  It was a delicious breakfast and made me think of home.   I got a few supplies and headed back up to my balcony as it was my last day and I planned on spending as much time as possible there.  The silence, the waves crashing against the rocks, staring at the water on a mostly empty sea – something about it was addicting. It was so calming, so comforting.   It has been the best room with a view I have had thus far this trip!

I went back down for dinner and had already decided that I would go back to the restaurant that I went to on my first night here.  The fish was the best meal of all that I have had and the waiter was the nicest townsperson I had interacted other than Christian.  It was early (7:30) and the place was fairly empty so I walked towards a table, asked a waitress if it was OK, she said yes so I sat down.  I didn’t see my waiter and assumed he had the night off.    The waitress gave me a menu and walked off – then over my shoulder I heard a chuckle...

He:  Buuuuuuuuuona sera, Signora! (Good evening) 

Me: Buona sera, Signore

He: Come stai?  (how are you)

Me: Va bene, e lei? (Very good, and you)

He:  Bene, grazie.  (Good, thanks).  Solo?

Me: Non!

He: Non?

Me: Sola!

He:  Ahhh (laughing) -- va bene, Signora!!!   Aqua naturale, si?  (Very good!  Water natural, yes?)

Me: Si!  Grazie.  (Yes, thank you)

He:  Prego!  E casa vino rosso, si?  (Your welcome – and house red wine, yes?)

Me: Si Signore – grazie! (Yes, thank you)

He:  Prego! (Your welcome)

Me: Che cosi oggi?  (What’s good today?)

He:  (big smile) Baked white fresh fish!!!

Me: Perfectto – si, per favore, Signore.  (Perfect – yes, please)

He:  Grazie Signora (thank you)

Me: Prego.   (your welcome)

The whole time I was there he would stop by and check on me, refill my wine glass and water glass if they were low, smile, and make comments.   Normally the wait staff leaves you alone at restaurants.  If you want something you have to speak up, including the check after they have cleared everything away from your table.  If you don’t ask, they don’t push.  But he was giving me the star treatment.       

At the end of my dinner, as he is clearing my plate -

He:  Bene? (Good?)

Me:  Si!  Perfectto!  Tutto delizioso - grazie. (Yes! Perfect! Everything delicious.)

He:  Prego signora.  Café?  Dolci?  (Coffee?  Desert? )

Me:  Non, niente.  Ma, uno momento per favore signore, Io parla lei.  (No, nothing.  But one moment please, I talk to you.)

He: Si.  (Yes)

Me:  Mi dispiace, mi I’italiano… (I’m sorry, my Italian)

He: Non problem signora – va bene.  L’italiano, English – blah, blah, blah…  (no problem, all is good, Italian, English – then he goes rambling on in Italian)
Me: I hold up my finger and say “Mi scusi signore, io parla!”  (Excuse me sir, I talk!)

He:  (laughing) Mi dispiace – per favore.  (I’m sorry – please)

Me:  Grazie.  Domani, io finito Vernazza….  (Thank you.  Tomorrow, I finish Vernazza….)

He:  Non, mi dispiace – blah, blah, blah…..  (No – I’m sorry – ramble – ramble – ramble)
I give him a look and clear my throat – he laughs, puts one hand over his month and gestures to me to continue with the other one.    

Me:  Grazie.  Io amora Vernazza – molto bella.   Io qui sette journo e Io manga tutto restaurant, bar, e café.  (Thank you.  I love Vernazza – very beautiful.  I here 7 days and I eat every restaurant, bar and café.) 

He: Si, si, si, si…. (I roll my eyes; he laughs again and shuts his mouth)

Me: Io qui sera perche il peche, il vino and lei.  (I here tonight because the fish, the wine and you.)

He:  Puts his hands over his heart.  Opens his mouth to speak - I raise my eyebrows - he closes his month, smiles, and nods for me to continue.

Me:  Mio casa e America e mio familia e amica’s.  Io sola de Italy.  Io bene, ma sola.  Lei benvenuti mio qui, molto importanto per me.  Grazie mille, signore.
(My home in America and my family and friends.  I alone in Italy.  I’m good, but alone.  You welcome me here, very important to me. Thank you very much.) 

He:  Shaking his head, he has one hand on his heart has places the other on my shoulder.  And says “lei e molto gentile, molto – molto gentile” (you are very kind – very, very kind) 

He: I speak English.

Me: Si!

He:  I'm glad you came back.  I have fun with you.  I see you every day and you always smile and talk to people.  You are welcoming and kind.  I'm sorry you must go.  

The restaurant was packed and many of the tables were reserved.  There were several couples waiting for an open table and many were eyeing mine.  I asked him for the check, he brought back a complimentary glass of desert wine.  I told him I should go, people are waiting.  He said no, take time to enjoy the wine my friend, they can wait, they are not my friends… 

A perfect ending to a wonderful day at an absolutely beautiful place – lucky, lucky, lucky me…..

6/24

The next morning I wait for Christian to come up to my room to settle the bill and because he offered to carry my bag down the steps and I wasn’t about to pass that up.  He and I sat on the balcony for almost an hour just talking.  Rather he talked and I listened.  He told me about his life and the mud slide and the town.  He’s 30, he looks younger but talks older…  He works everyday for 10 months out of the year managing these rooms and more throughout the town; he also has some kind of import/export business with a buddy and owns property in Thailand that he hopes to build a home on someday.  Far enough inland that he doesn’t have to worry about tsunami’s, he says.   He runs the hiking trails at night, the ones that others can barely walk, to keep his legs and ankles strong.  He was on a professional soccer team when he was 14 but he broke both his ankles and couldn’t walk for over a year.   He said “the soccer train only comes by once, sometimes twice if you real lucky – me, I’m not lucky.”   He absolutely worships his father, he calls him Daddy.  At first I think that sounds funny for a 30yr old man, but as he continues to tell me about him it sounds more natural and right.   His says his Momma is a princess and has some choice words about that but I can tell he is a good son to her.   He is lovely.  He's single and likes it that way.  He said all women do is tell you what to do and then spend all your money.   I like him.  Saying goodbye to him at the bottom of the steps is hard and my feet don't move, I just stand there.  He tells me I should stay, the room is empty for 4 more nights and I am tempted.  But I go because I’ve already been charged for the next hotel stay, so I shake his hand and go.  I really love this town and as I wait for the train, I’m already thinking I may just have to come back.    

If you are into sitting, relaxing, sunning, eating great baked fresh white fish and just living in the moment, put Vernazza on your bucket list.  And if you need a place to stay, and if Christian hasn’t moved to Thailand yet, stay at his place – La Marina Rooms.   I give it a 5-star rating.

Next stop – Parma.

Ciao ~