Pompeii 7/15 – 7/18

7/15

It was a 3-train excursion to get from Assisi to Pompeii.   First it was a regional train from Assisi to Rome which took a little over an hour (no A/C), next for the Rome to Naples hop it was supposed to be comfortable fast train but was replaced by a sleeper car train at the last minute.  That was a four hour stretch.  The train said it was air conditioned, but it wasn’t working today…  There were six of us in the sleeper car compartment, along with our luggage so it was a tight fit.  A hot, steamy, cramped tight fit but we made it without losing anybody...  Then when I reached Naples, I had to find the train to Pompeii.  

I go to the ticket counter and the clerk tells me I must go to another window at the other side of the station.  I got to that window and the clerk tells me I need to buy the ticket from the tobacco shop (which is where you buy local bus tickets as well).  I go to the tobacco shop and the clerk sent me to yet another counter.  I finally get to the right counter, buy my ticket and the clerk tells me the train leaves in three minutes and is down three flights of stairs.  Three minutes – three flights of stairs - - - of course it is.   I pick up my suitcase and move!  I make it by the hair of my chinny, chin, chin and hop on the train as the doors close behind me.  Whew!!!   I sit down and find again that this train also does not have A/C.  Oh well, I can’t really sweat any more than I already am so I just sit back and fan myself and watch Naples go by outside the window.  The train stops at every station and the stations are full of graffiti and garbage.  Yuck!  I’m a little uncomfortable at the sight of it.  Everywhere I have been thus far in Italy has been very clean, tourist towns or not.  Here, every stops sign has been covered in graffiti so much so that you can’t even read it.  I am hoping that Pompeii will be easy to spot.    Luckily, and probably because it is a big tourist stop, it is the one place that is clean and the sign is visible.  I get off the train, ask about a bus to my hotel and am told there isn’t one so I must take a taxi.   So I get a taxi with a driver that is grumpy and doesn’t speak any English (which I highly doubt) and am at my hotel 10 minutes later.   What a fun travel day!

The hotel is just five minutes from the ruins but is on a dirty back street and I am wondering what the heck the Trip Advisor reviews were talking about when they referred this place.  The minute I walk in the door and am greeting by the ‘staff’, I relax.  It is a family run hotel and I am checked in by the grandparents who have got to be in their 80’s if not older.   They are absolutely lovely and welcoming.  They tell me where to eat, how to get to the ruins, how to get to the main square in town, what streets to stay away from and give me a big bottle of water for free.   They tell me I need to take a shower, relax for a while and then I need to eat and get a good sleep before I walk around the ruins.  I just want to hug them…   I’m on the first floor and I turn to walk towards the steps and Grandpa says “no, take the lift.  You tired, you need rest.”    He came around the desk, took my bag and put it in the elevator for me, guided me in and then pressed the 1 button.  He smiled and I just wanted to cry.  Now I understand the reviews…

The room turns out to be ok, it big and there is even a balcony.  The bathroom is small and there is no way to move around in the shower, but what’s a girl to do but smile and accept it.

 

I do as instructed by Grandma and Grandpa, take a shower to wash off the day’s travel and then sit on the balcony and chill out.  7pm comes rolling around so I mosey on down to the town square to find some grub.  The townsfolk are out and about socializing so after dinner I find a seat at the town fountain and just pretend I've lived there all my life.

Whenever I make eye contact with someone a “buona sera” is exchanged and many times they just start talking to me in Italian.  I just smile and nod – hoping that they are saying something nice.    At one point an old man sits next to me and just starts rambling on in Italian.   I apologize and tell him I don’t understand, and he laughs and just keeps talking anyway, so I laugh and just nod.  This went for about a half an hour.   It started to get dark so I get up to go as I am still unsure of my way around, I turn to him and say “ciao”, he says “ciao” and  blows me a kiss.  I’m always a hit with old men…    

7/16

The breakfast spread at the hotel is decent and I am again overwhelmed by their over the top service.  Today it is the father and daughter working the room and the father can’t seem to do enough for me.  He, as with most Italian men, is a ‘close talker’.  If you are standing, they come right into your personal space to converse with you.  Some get really close!  I noticed it in Rome.   It was a little un-nerving at first but now I like it, it shows that the person you are speaking to is really, really listening.  

It’s early and the ruins aren’t open yet, so I walk the streets to kill some time.  Here is a peak at the streets of the town of Pompeii.

I end up back at the town square and pop into the church that is there.  It is a church built to honor Mother Mary and apparently is a very popular place.  Many people come by day and night just to leave flowers and to kiss the floor in front of the main alter.  It is said that many miracles have been attributed to this church.  I get there just as Mass begins, so I start my day in a holy way.  It’s very beautiful inside but I only take one photo, I didn’t want to offend the worshipers. 

By the time Mass is over, the ruins gates have opened so I am off to explore.  The origins of the city are unknown but it is believed to have begun somewhere round 600 BC.  This thought staggers my mind, knowing that I am walking in such an ancient place…  Mount Vesuvius erupted and buried it on August 24, 79 AD.  It was rediscovered in the 16^th century and exploration began in 1748 and was not completed until the 19^th century.  The Italian government is still working on excavation and restoration but Pompeii has suffered under the corrupted governments “care”.  Last November a building collapsed and because of that the effort to protect the ruins have increased but still, as many Italians will tell you, the government is not doing enough to save them.       

Here come the pictures!   But first, a word of warning

The stepping stones in the streets of Pompeii serve two purposes – one is for irrigation.  The streets of Pompeii were regularly flooded to wash away dirt, dust and trash.    Also when it rained, the sewers would also overflow and wash down the streets.  So the stones were in place so the people could step over the water.  The second purpose is to identify what kind of street it was.   

One stone means it is a pedestrian only street

 Two stones mean it is a one way street

Three and more stones mean it is a two way street  

I don’t know what this means other than “slow down!”

temple of Apollo

the basilica

the forum

store fronts

  

chariot wheels imprints

Excavators determined that this was where a vineyard once stood, so they replanted vineyards here to show the tourist.  The grapes are harvested for wine. 

The “bodies” you are about to see are not actual bodies…  When the volcano erupted, the few thousands of people that stayed behind were all killed, of course.  They’re bodies were incased in the dust and ash and then it hardened.   The bodies did decay, but the volcanic ash held the image of the body.  Excavators developed a way to fill the mostly hollow shell with plaster and then they chipped away the outer casing of dust to fully expose the body.   Some do have skeletal remains that can be seen in the plaster.   It was hard for me to look at these and to take the photos that I did because you can clearly see the anguish of the last moment of the person’s life.   I felt like I was I was intruding…  I understand that this is a historical and excavation wonder but I still wasn’t comfortable looking at them.  Their last moment, frozen in time forever…    

    

I walked in the ruins for over 4 hours and still didn't see it all as I found out later when I took a look at the tourist map.  I’m a lousy tourist…   It was incredible to see all of this and the day is full of “I can’t believe I am really here” moments.   I walk back towards the square again to revisit the church so I can just sit and take some time to reflect.   While I am there, I watch the steady stream of townspeople and tourist who come to pray to Mary.   It’s a great place to sit. 

I spend the rest of the evening hanging out in the town square just mixing in with the locals.  When I finally do get back to the hotel, Grandpa is there to let me in and makes me give him a full report of my day.  Home again, home again, jiggity jig.   

7/17

Today I just walk the town, and there isn’t much to it.   There is a lot of commotion in the square as they are setting up a stage outside of the church to host some kind of religious TV program.   I sit and watch the action and to listen to the orchestra practice.  The show is tomorrow night, so I won’t get to see it but I enjoy just being here, hanging with the locals – smiling and nodding.

                                                                                                                                               

I needed some stamps for post cards, so I walk around until I find the post office.  I go in, take a number (like you do in a deli or at the DMV) and wait for my turn.   My number comes up on the big board; I step up to window one and this is what transpired.

Me:  Air mail stamps, per favore.

He: Non, don’t have. 

Me:  Scusi signor, Air Mail stamps, per favore. 

He:  (yells) NON!  We have none, GO!  (he hits the button for the next number to come up)

Me:  NON!!!  

Supervisor comes over, ask the problem, I tell him I need Air Mail stamps, he and dude have loud words, dude goes to back room, supervisor tells me he went for stamps.   I wait and wait and wait, and then I glance out the window and see the dude smoking a cigarette.  I call over the supervisor, point to the dude and say – stamps?  Per favore signore, per favore!!!  Supervisor goes outside, more yelling, dude finally comes back in, give me .75 stamps. I tell him everywhere else they give me 1.40 stamps, he said they all cheat me.  He puts .75 stamps on the post cards I had on the counter and dropped them in the box behind him.   Two were to my Mom, one to a friend in PA, I have no idea if they will get them.

He says 7.50.  I give him a 20 euro note.  He gives me change for 10.  

Me: Non, 20!

He: (yells) NON - 10!!

Me: Non signor, 20!!

Supervisor comes over, I tell him I gave a 20. Dude tells him I gave a 10. Super says dude says 10. I say dude also said no air mail stamps.  They both just look at me...  I can’t win here, so I pick up my change and say in very loud, clear English (to the dude) “You lie and you steal from me.” (to the supervisor) “You do nothing.”  (to both) “You are NOT good men!”   As I walk away, two women reach and touch my arm and nod and say things in Italian and man starts a shouting match with the two dudes.

Today’s lesson - never buy Air Mail stamps at the Pompeii post office...

I go back to the hotel to chill out and regroup and the clerk (the daughter) asks me what is wrong.  I tell her what happened at the post office.  She apologized and says it wasn’t me; they treat everyone that way because it is a government job and they don’t want to work.   A reoccurring theme I am hearing everywhere I go. 

I found a great restaurant for dinner on Trip Advisor and I arrived at 8pm to find I am the first one there.  Since the waiters had nothing to do, I get the star treatment from all of them.  I also got to know the Papa who owns it and the son, Roberto, who runs it.  When Roberto asked what I would like, I tell him I like fish and ask him what is good.  “Lean-da”, he says “I take care of you, don’t worry.”   He says “you like red wine, yes”, Si – I say.  I asked him how he knew; he said he just knows things.   He sat down with me and told me about the restaurant, his background, where he grew up and showed me pictures of his kids.  He asked about me, we talk about America and my trip.  Then he went into the kitchen and brought me a plate of muscles.   Delicious!  By now more customers are coming in and the room is getting crowded.  He stopped by asked if I enjoyed the muscles; I roll my eyes in appreciation. 

He talks about the freshness of the ingredients and how important they are and that the fewer the better.  He says he doesn’t like many of the American TV chefs because they overload the food with too many flavors.  He said American’s taste buds are worn out and don’t know what good food really tastes like.   That the chefs on TV bury the original ingredient so much that it hides the food.  He also says they use too much lemon.  He says if a dish needs lemon to “freshen it up” then it’s not a fresh dish to begin with.  He disappears into the kitchen again and brings me back a beautiful grilled Sea Bass.  No lemon.  He said it’s fresh; it doesn’t need lemon and asks me to take a taste to let me know if I agree.  I taste – I agree.  Halfway through the Sea Bass he brings me a salad that I didn’t order.  “Lean-da, you need this”. 

When my plates are clean he stops by again and asks what I will have for desert.  Niente (nothing), I say.   “Lean-da, you must!”   Non grazie, I say.  “Leeeean-da, yes!”  He goes into the kitchen and comes back with a small piece of some kind of chocolate cake and another half-liter of wine.  OMG!   He works the room, taking care of his other guests and makes his way back to my table.  He grabs a bottle that has clear liquor in it, obviously a home brew.  He pours us both a shot and tells me it is made from wild fennel.  He toasts to me and we drink.  Holy firewater, batman!   I am finished.  Finito!   He brings me the check, I pay, I go to stand up and wobble.  Mamma Mia!  Thank goodness I am only two blocks from home. 

The next morning I felt the effects of the wine and the Finocchietto (the home made hooch) and then wrote my first Trip Advisor review.  The restaurant’s name is Add’ u Mimi. 

I enjoyed the little town of Pompeii, the ruins, the people, the wine, and that restaurant.  It was an quite a trip to get here and there is not much to it other than the ruins, but if you come this way I do recommend you spend at least one night so you can experience it all.   And go to that restaurant!

Next stop – Sorrento

Ciao ~