Assisi 7/12 – 7/15

7/12

It’s back on the train to get to Padova to Assisi.  I ride the fast train from Padova to Florence and it’s smooth as silk, then it was a regional (slow) train from Florence to Assisi.   There is no A/C in the slow train, just windows.  It was a hot and sticky ride, but still enjoyable because as I got closer to Assisi I saw fields of sunflowers for the first time since I have been here.  Beautiful!!   They are still small and most were facing the opposite direction of the train so I couldn’t see their ‘faces’, but it was still exciting to see.  I hope I have the opportunity to see them in full bloom before I leave Italy.

Side note – I have booked my ticket home.  I leave from Rome on September 6^th and arrive in Harrisburg PA later that same day.   I will be spending some time in Hershey to get some much needed family and friend loving and to get my nutritional and swimming fitness plan back on track then - - - ???   

Assisi is a hill town.  It sits half way up the slopes of Mount Subasio at 2000 feet above sea level and I have to walk up hill from the bus station to my hotel.  As I drag my suitcase behind me I keep hoping (and praying) that the wheels will hold out until the end of this trip.  I’ve already lost the rubber coating on one of them and my Italy budget is quickly running dry so I need to watch every euro.   As I walk up to my find my hotel, I get my first glimpse at the place this town is known for, St Francis Basilica.

And I keep climbing...

and climbing

and climbing

and climbing

and I make it!

The hotel looks to be a nice place, it’s got a nice looking lobby area and the receptionist is very professional and helpful so I am hoping I the room will be alright.  I am a little bit spoiled by the one I just left in Padua.   When I get to my room’s door, I have a moment of panic as it looks like it could be the front door of the Seven Dwarfs’ house.

I open the door to find a small room, but it does have a real double bed that is comfortable and a decent size bathroom with a shower that I can kind of move around in.

But the biggest treat of all is when I open the shutters of the window and see my view of the town and valley below.  Ta da!!

Pedro is digging it too.

Assisi is known for its home town boy, St. Francis.   He is the founder of the order of Franciscan Monks.  He is also the person who invented the manger scene that we setup at Christmas - bet you didn't know that.   In the paintings of the original setup, the ‘star of Bethlehem’ is depicted as a comment.  Religious historians believe that it is very possible that the wise men actually followed Haley’s Comet to Bethlehem as it would have been visible around that time.  

Here is his story.  He was the son of a rich man and in 1202 he put on his armor and went off to fight the Perugians.  He was captured and was a prisoner of war for year.  When he was released and sent home, he became a bit of a hermit as a result of the brutality he had witness in the war.  In 1206 while praying in a small chapel in town, he asked God for guidance and the crucifix he was looking at spoke to him and said “Go and rebuild my Church, which you see has fallen into ruin.”  After that, Francis went into the center of town and stripped naked in front of the town leaders and his father and turned his back on his families’ wealth and all his worldly goods.  He ran off to the woods and along the way he grabbed a wool tunic he found and a rope to tie it round his body and became a preacher.  That is why Franciscan monk where the similar outfits today. 

He was seen as a cult figure in his day because he was doing something the Church had never done, he took Gods message to the people by preaching outdoors and in the local language and not in Latin.  He not only preached Christ’s teaching he also followed Christ’s lifestyle living as a poor, wandering preacher.  He traded in a life of power and riches and took the vows of obedience, chastity, and poverty.   The rope worn around the Franciscan monks robe is tied in three knots to symbolize these vows.  Francis was also the first person to refer to the earth as mother, the sun as brother, and the moon as sister.  He saw every person, creature and element of nature as being worthy of the exact same level of respect.    You have probably seen statues of St. Francis in a garden somewhere in your travels.  The statue usually has birds too because he would often be surrounded by birds when he was preaching, as if they were listening to him. 

7/13

I spent the day walking the town and seeing the sites – which are mostly, you guessed it, CHURCHES!  Oh and I found out that the first church bell rings at 7am as the tower just happens to be downhill directly in line with my hotel window.   Who needs an alarm clock in this county?  Not me!

These are photos of the outside the Basilica of St Clare.  She was a follower of St. Francis and wanted to be a monk.  Her parents tried to keep her from leaving, so St Francis and some of his other monks helped her escape her home.  He then cut off all hair, gave her a brown tunic and rope and let her join his order.  They became very close friends and she started her own order of nuns called the Poor Clares.

I don’t know what this lady was doing or selling.  I sat in courtyard for over a half hour just people watching and taking in all that is around me and I didn’t see her interact nor acknowledge anyone the whole time. She just sat there looking pretty and writing on note cards. 

These are the olive groves of St Clares; they have been there since the 13 century

St. Francis and St. Clare

These are pictures in and around a chapel that was built where St. Francis’s house used to be.

This is an original room in the house.  It’s a little room that St. Francis’ father locked him into and held him prisoner for a few weeks when he told his father he wanted to live like Christ.  

This is the Church of St Maria Sopra Minerva and sits in the main square of town, Piazza del Comune. 

The Basilica of Saint Francis - no inside photos are allowed so you’re going to have to come and see it for yourself.    There is an upper and lower basilica and the artwork in both is absolutely incredible.  St. Francis’s tomb is in the lower basilica. 

Francis coming home after the war.

Yard art – the Franciscan cross and the word PEACE

This is a courtyard in between the upper and lower basilica’s that also served as a cistern to collect rain water for the 200 monks that lived and studied there.   

Here are some street shots of the day as well:

 

This artist really likes cats...

This is a product available in vending machines....???

It was a great day of walking and visiting churches and I still didn't get to them all, but they will have to wait until tomorrow as I am worn out!  Before heading back to the hotel I had dinner at a restaurant that was listed in Rick Steves’ Italy book and I also found it on the  TripAdvisor website.   I have to give Rick his ‘props’ as he is right on with his food and accommodations recommendations.  If you are traveling to Europe, I highly recommend you invest in one of his books and be sure to visit TripAdvisor.  Both are excellent resources! 

07/14

The hotel has a decent breakfast buffet and they try to satisfy their American guests by having a hot plate full of scrambled eggs and bacon.  I was so excited to see them but not near as excited when I tasted them as both were severely undercooked.    Ah well, I will stick with the croissants and brioche as they know how to make them VERY well. 

After breakfast, I take off to climb down to see the church whose bell tower calls out to me every morning, St. Peters. 

I don’t know what this is outside of St. Peters; I think it looks like a really big incenses holder.

The church is very plain inside; this is the one beautiful thing on display.

This is a very tiny church built where St Francis’s fathers’ clothes business once stood. 

These are some photos of the Cathedral of St Rufino, who is the patron saint of Assisi.   He was the town’s first bishop.

This is a statue at the entrance of the church; it’s a lion eating a Christian martyr to remind worshipers of the courage of early Christians.  Hmmmm....

 

After St Rufino’s, I just walked a bit to see what else I could discover before I take a break for lunch.   Then I stumble upon this - I think it is a cross between an armadillo, pig and fish…

I walk a road “less traveled”

and from that road I see my afternoon destination, Rocco Maggiore.

But first, lunch – this was another TripAdvisor find.  Incredible!

Chicken with sweet red peppers and a salad.  I should have had water instead of wine, but you know what – I’M IN ITALY AND THE WINE IS FANTASTIC!!!

As usual Pedro was a big hit at the restaurant.  My waitress told the other waitresses about him so they all had to come by and pat his head,  Even the chef stopped by my table to meet him!   

It’s time to take the hike up another hill and explore Rocco Maggiore a fortress that was built in the 13^th century.  On the left of the first photo, you can see where previous visitors have left gum behind. 

The view from the top of the tower:

And how did I get up here?  Very carefully….

This freaked me out for a minute when I walked into this room.

That is St. Francis Basilica down there.

Walking back down the hill.

And I left a little something behind as proof that "Linda was here!"

  

I’ve seen all there is to see here in Assisi, but it is more than just a town of churches and saints, it is a really lovely place. Since it sits halfway up the mountain, even though it been in the mid 90’s every day, the constant breeze made it bearable.  And it’s also been great for drying laundry –

Everyone that I have interacted in town has been very welcoming and kind. There is a feeling of peacefulness here; maybe it has something to do with all the monks and nuns walking around.  I don’t know. All I know it that it has been a great stop.   So if you’re into peacefulness, fantastic food, cool mountain breezes, walking hills and seeing churches, this is a town for you. 

Next stop – Pompeii

Ciao ~